With its international reputation for fine
dining, few people would be surprised to hear
that French cuisine can certainly be very good.
Unfortunately, it can also be quite
disappointing. Finding the right restaurant is
therefore very important - try asking locals,
hotel staff or even browsing restaurant guides
for recommendations as simply walking in off the
street can be a hit and miss affair.
There are many places to try French food in
France, from three-star Michelin restaurants to
French "brasseries" or "bistros" that you can
find at almost every corner, especially in big
cities. These usually offer a relatively
consistent and virtually standardised menu of
relatively inexpensive cuisine. To obtain a
greater variety of dishes, a larger outlay of
money is often necessary. In general, one should
try to eat where the locals do for the best
chance of a memorable meal. Most small cities or
even villages have local restaurants which are
sometimes listed in the most reliable guides.
There are also specific local restaurants, like
"bouchons lyonnais" in Lyons, "crêperies" in
Brittany (or in the Montparnasse area of Paris),
etc. Ethnic food is available throughout France,
Chinese restaurants and takeaways (actually most
of them are Vietnamese) are everywhere, and
large cities have North African, Greek, Italian
(pizzerias) restaurants and eateries. The
ubiquitous hamburger eateries (US original or
their French copies) is also available.
In France, taxes (19.6 per cent of the total)
and service (usually 15 per cent) are always
included in the bill ; so anything patrons add
to the bill amount is an "extra-tip".
French
people usually leave one or two coins if they
were happy with the service.
Menu fixed price seldom include beverages. If
you want water, waiters will often try to sell
you mineral water (Évian, Thonon) or fizzy water
(Badoit, Perrier), at a premium; ask for a
carafe d'eau for tap water, which is free and
safe to drink. Water never comes with ice in it
unless so requested (and water with ice may not
be available).
Ordering is made either from fixed price
menus (prix fixe) or à la carte.
A typical fixed
price menu will comprise:
appetizer, called entrées or hors d'œuvres
main dish, called plat
dessert (dessert) or cheese (fromage)
Sometimes, restaurants offer the option to take
only two of three steps, at a reduced price.
Coffee is always served as a final step
(though it may be followed by liquors). A
request for coffee during the meal will be
considered weird.
Not all restaurants are open for lunch and
dinner, nor are they open all year around. It is
therefore advisable to check carefully the
opening times and days. A restaurant open for
lunch will usually start service at noon and
accept patrons until 13:30. Dinner begins at
around 19:30 and patrons are accepted until
21:30. Restaurants with longer service hours are
usually found only in the larger cities and in
the downtown area. Finding a restaurant open on
Saturday and especially Sunday can be a
challenge unless you stay close to the tourist
areas.
In a reasonable number of restaurants,
especially outside tourist areas, a booking is
compulsory and people may be turned away without
one, even if the restaurant is clearly not
filled to capacity. For this reason, it can be
worthwhile to research potential eateries in
advance and make the necessary reservations in
order to avoid disappointment, especially if the
restaurant you're considering is specially
advised in guide books.
A lunch or dinner for two on the "menu"
including wine and coffee will cost you (as of
2004) €70 to €100 in a listed restaurant in
Paris. The same with beer in a local "bistro" or
a "crêperie" around €50. A lunch or dinner for
one person in a decent Chinese restaurant in
Paris can cost as little as €6 if one looks
carefully.
Outside of Paris and the main cities, prices
are not always lower but the menu will include a
fourth course, usually cheese. As everywhere
beware of the tourist traps which are numerous
around the heavy travelled spots and may offer a
nice view but not much to remember in your
plate.
Bread
All white bread variants keep for only a short
time - must be eaten the same day. Hence bakers
bake at least twice a day!
The famous baguette: a long, thin loaf
Variants of the baguette : la ficelle (even
thinner), la flûte
Pain de campagne or Pain complet: made from
whole grain which keeps relatively well.
Pastries
Pastries are a large part of French cooking.
Hotel breakfasts tend to be light, consisting of
tartines (pieces of bread with butter or jam) or
the famous croissants and pains au chocolat, not
dissimilar to a chocolate filled croissant (but
square rather than crescent shaped).
Pastries can be found in a pâtisserie but
also in most boulangeries.
Regional dishes
Every French region has dishes all its own.
These dishes follow the resources (game, fish,
agriculture, etc) of the region, the vegetables
(cabbage, turnip, endives, etc) which they grow
there. Here is a small list of regional dishes
which you can find easily in France. Generally
each region has a unique and widespread dish
(usually because it was poor people's food):
Cassoulet (in south west) : Beans, duck, pork
& sausages
Choucroute, or sauerkraut (in Alsace) : stripped
fermented cabbage + pork
Fondue savoyarde (central Alps) : Melted/hot
cheese with alcohol
Fondue bourguignonne (in burgundy) : Pieces of
beef (in boiled oil), usually served with a
selection of various sauces.
Raclette (central Alps) : melted cheese &
potatoes/meat
Pot-au-feu : boiled beef with vegetables
Boeuf bourguignon (Burgundy) : slow cooked beef
with gravy
Gratin dauphinois (Rhone-Alpes) : oven roasted
slices of potatoes
Aligot (Auvergne) : melted cheese mixed with a
puree of potatoes
Bouillabaisse (fish + saffron) (Marseille and
French Riviera). Don't be fooled. A real
bouillabaisse is a really expensive dish due to
the amount of fresh fish it requires. Be
prepared to pay at least 30€/persons. If you
find restaurants claiming serving bouillabaisse
for something like 15€/persons, you'll get a
very poor quality.
Tartiflette (Savoy) Reblochon cheese, potatoes
and pork or bacon.
Confit de canard (Landes) : Duck legs and wings
bathing in grease. That grease is actually very
healthy and, with red wine, is one of the
identified sources of the so-called "French
Paradox" (eat richly, live long).
Foie gras (Landes) : The liver of a force-fed
duck (or goose). Although usually quite
expensive, foie gras can be found in
supermarkets for a lower price (because of their
purchasing power) around the holiday season. It
is the time of year when most of foie gras is
consumed in France. It goes very well with
champagne.
Unusual foods
Contrary to stereotype, snails and frog legs are
quite infrequent foods in France, with many
French people enjoying neither, or sometimes
having never even tasted them. Quality
restaurants sometimes have them on their menu:
if you're curious about trying new foods, go
ahead.
Frogs' legs have a very fine and delicate
taste with flesh that is not unlike chicken.
They are often served in a garlic dressing and
are no weirder to eat than, say, crab.
Most of the taste of Bourgogne snails (escargots
de bourgogne) comes from the generous amount of
butter, garlic and parsley in which they are
cooked. Bear this in mind if you discover that
you like them, as you may regret
over-consumption in the morning. They have a
very particular spongy-leathery texture that is
what is liked by people who like snails. Catalan
style snails ("cargols") are made a completely
different way, and taste much weirder.
Let us also cite:
Rillettes sarthoise. A sort of potted meat,
made from finely shredded and spiced pork. A
delicious speciality of the Sarthe area in the
north of the Pays de la Loire and not to be
confused with rillettes from other areas, which
are more like a rough pate.
Beef bone marrow (os a moelle). Generally served
in small quantities, with a large side. So go
ahead: If you don't like it, you'll have
something else to eat in your plate.
Veal sweetbread (ris de Veau), is a very fine
(and generally expensive) delicacy, often served
with morels, or in more elaborates dishes like
"bouchees a la reine".
Beef stomach (tripes) is served either "A la
mode de caen" (with a white wine sauce) or "A la
catalane" (with a slightly spiced tomato sauce)
Andouillettes are sausages made from tripe. It
is a specialty of Lyon
Beef tongue (langue de bœuf) and beef
nose(museau) and Veal head (tete de veau) are
generally eaten cold (but thoroughly cooked!) as
an appetizer.
Oysters (almost always eaten raw in France)
"Oursins" (sea urchins) For those who like
concentrated iodine.
"Steak tartare", a big patty of ground beef
served raw, with a raw egg on top.
cervelle, that is lamb brain.
Cheese
France is certainly THE country of cheese, with
nearly 400 different kinds. Indeed, former
president General Charles De Gaulle was quoted
as saying something along the lines of, nobody
could govern a country with more than 265
different cheeses.
Here is a far from exhaustive list of what
one can find:
Bleu des Causses Livarot Roquefort
Bleu du Vercors Morbier Saint Nectaire
Boulette d'Avesnes Maroilles Salers
Brie de Meaux Munster Sainte Maure de Touraine
Brie de Melun Murol Selles-sur-Cher
Broccio Neufchâtel Sainte Maure de Touraine
Camembert Ossau-Iraty Tomme de chèvre
Cantal Pelardon Tomme des Cévennes
Chaource Pérail Tomme de Savoie
Comté Picodon Valençay
Drink
Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Rhone, the Loire
Valley...France is the home of wine. It can be
found cheaply just about anywhere. Beer (lager)
is also extremely popular, in particular in
northern France, where "[Biere de Garde]" can be
found. Note that in France, the minimum age to
buy alcohol at cafés is 16, but this is not
always strictly enforced; however, laws against
drunk driving are strictly enforced, with stiff
penalties.
Wine and liquors may be purchased from
supermarkets, or from specialized stores such as
the Nicolas chain. Nicolas offers good advice on
what to buy (specify the kind of wine and the
price range you desire). In general, only French
wines are available unless a foreign wine is a
"specialty" with no equivalent in France (such
as port), and they are classified by region of
origin, not by grape.
Never drink alcoholic beverages (especially
wine) directly from a 75 cl bottle.
Such
behaviour is generally associated with bums and
drunkards.
Café prices depend heavily on location.
Remember, you're not paying so much for the
beverage as for the table spot; and accordingly,
in general, it is cheaper to drink at the bar
than seated at a table. Cafés in touristic
areas, especially in Paris, are very expensive.
If your intent is simply to have a drink, you'll
be better off buying beverages from a grocery
store and drinking them in a park.
There are a couple of mixed drinks which seem
to be more or less unique to France, and nearby
francophone countries.
Panaché is a mix of beer and lemonade,
basically a beer shandy.
Monaco is a Panaché with some grenadine syrup
added.
Kir is a pleasant aperitif of white wine (in
theory, Bourgogne Aligoté) or, less frequently,
of champagne (then named kir royal and about
twice the price of regular kir) and cassis
(blackcurrant liqueur), or peche (peach), or
mûre (blackberry).
Pastis is an anise-based (licorice-flavored)
spirit that is more popular in the South, but is
also available everywhere else. Served with a
small pitcher of iced water that is used to
dilute the drink and turns the yellow colored
liquid cloudy.
Tap water is safe to drink apart from
exceptional cases (remote farms, remote rest
areas), in which case it will be labeled eau non
potable. Tap water may be obtained in
restaurants by asking for a carafe d'eau; it
will not come with ice. In some cities, it may
have a taste such as that of chlorine.
There is a variety of bottled water,
including:
Évian, Thonon, Contrex: mineral water
Perrier: fizzy water
Badoit: slightly fizzy and salty water. |